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Regine Grosch
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+49 (0)178 72 48 163
reginegrosch@gmail.com
You are looking for cosmetics for skin and facial care or Nutritional supplement and do you have any questions about it? Solutions to most requirements are compiled on the "Guidance" pages. From there you can get to the recommended products, which can either be found in the Deesse Online Shop or can be ordered directly from me.
About Déesse · Understanding Cosmetics
Beautiful. You.Hyaluronic acid, plant oils and vitamins: many familiar names refer to a specific purpose in skincare. Discover the main groups of cosmetic ingredients and what to consider when choosing your products.
Putting Ingredients into Perspective
No single ingredient determines how well a cream suits your skin. Its concentration, interaction with other ingredients, texture and intended use are important too.
This guide explains common cosmetic ingredients. It is not a complete list of ingredients used across the Déesse range. The current ingredients list for each product tells you exactly what it contains.
Does your skin lack moisture, feel dry or need something extra in your existing routine? Start by considering its current condition.
A lightweight lotion, a rich cream and a facial oil can contain similar ingredients yet feel quite different on the skin.
Add products to your routine with a clear purpose. Using several intensive serums or exfoliants at once can make it harder to assess their suitability and tolerability.
Helping Skin Retain Water
Moisture-binding ingredients are fundamental to many skincare products. They are often combined with oils and other lipids.
INCI examples: Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic acid binds water and is used as a humectant in serums, creams and masks. Different forms and molecular sizes are available. The ingredient name alone does not tell you how a finished product will perform.
INCI: Glycerin
Glycerin is a widely used humectant. It attracts water and helps skin feel soft and supple. It is found in facial care, body care and cleansing products.
INCI: Urea
Urea is one of the skin’s natural moisturising factors. Urea used in cosmetics is produced synthetically. Its role depends on the concentration: as well as retaining moisture, higher concentrations can help soften thickened, hardened skin.
INCI examples: Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sodium Lactate
These ingredients also help retain moisture. They are often combined with other substances to support skin comfort and hydration.
Richness & Skin Comfort
These ingredients soften and condition the skin, complementing moisturising care. Their composition influences whether a product feels light or rich.
INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Shea butter comes from the kernels of the shea tree. This plant-based fat gives creams a rich texture and helps dry skin feel supple.
INCI: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Both plant butters are used for their emollient properties and texture. They give skincare products body and support a soft skin feel.
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Chemically speaking, jojoba oil is a liquid wax. It is used as an emollient in facial, body and hair care.
INCI: Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
These plant oils are obtained from kernels or seeds. In cosmetics, they are mainly used to replenish lipids and leave the skin feeling supple.
INCI examples: Oenothera Biennis Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Evening primrose and macadamia oils differ in their fatty acid composition. Both are used as conditioning oils in cosmetic formulations. The finished product as a whole matters when making a choice.
INCI: Squalane
Squalane is an emollient that can, for example, be obtained from plant-based raw materials. It is often used to give skin a smooth, lightweight feel.
INCI examples: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP
Ceramides are lipids also found in the outermost layer of skin. In skincare, they are used to support the skin barrier, often alongside other lipids.
INCI examples: Petrolatum, Paraffinum Liquidum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Not all conditioning lipids are plant oils. These ingredients also soften the skin; some form a film that helps reduce water loss. Their origin alone reveals little about whether a formulation is suitable.
A Déesse Product Example: Alpine Concept Day Cream combines ingredients including shea and cupuaçu butters with jojoba oil. Whether rich skincare suits you depends on your skin’s condition and the texture you prefer.
Targeted Additions
These ingredients complement the base formulation. Their properties are interesting, but the performance of the finished product depends on its formulation, concentration and use.
INCI: Panthenol, Allantoin
Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is used as a moisture-binding, skin-conditioning ingredient. Allantoin is another commonly used skin-conditioning ingredient.
INCI: Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. It is used in products designed to support the skin barrier and promote a more even-looking complexion. A higher concentration is not necessarily the better choice.
INCI examples: Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Different forms of vitamin C are used in cosmetics, including in antioxidant-focused skincare. These forms differ in their stability and formulation requirements.
INCI examples: Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone
Vitamin E and Q10 are used as antioxidant ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Antioxidants can also help protect sensitive components of a formulation against oxidation.
INCI examples: Retinol, Retinal, Retinyl Palmitate
Vitamin A derivatives are used in skincare products intended to improve the appearance of the skin. The individual forms are not interchangeable. Follow the product instructions and introduce such products gradually into your routine.
Seek medical advice before using these ingredients during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
INCI examples: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hydrolyzed Collagen
Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Proteins and their derivatives are used, for example, for skin conditioning, film formation or hair care. Their cosmetic function depends on the specific ingredient.
Collagen in a cream does not mean that the skin’s own collagen is being replaced.
INCI examples: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Botanical extracts are a varied group. Aloe vera, for example, is used in moisture-focused skincare. Other extracts are chosen for different skin-conditioning properties.
A plant name alone does not reveal the concentration or exact composition of the extract used.
INCI example: Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Algae extracts are used in a variety of cosmetic formulations. Their composition and function differ depending on the species and how it is processed.
Swiss Complex is an active ingredient blend used by Déesse in the Alpine Concept range. Such a complex is not a single INCI ingredient: its components are listed individually in the product’s ingredients list.
Biotechnological ingredients also include ferments and bacterial lysates, such as Lactococcus Ferment Lysate. A fermented ingredient or lysate does not automatically mean a product contains live bacteria.
Choosing How to Use Them
Following the instructions for the specific product is especially important here. An ingredient name alone reveals neither how intensively a product should be used nor its sun protection factor.
INCI examples: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acids. In suitably formulated exfoliating products, they help remove dead cells from the skin’s surface.
Their intensity depends on factors including concentration and pH. Follow the instructions and use appropriate sun protection.
INCI examples: Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone
Salicylic acid is commonly described as a BHA, while gluconolactone belongs to the PHA group. They can be included in exfoliating formulas, but their function cannot be determined solely from their presence in an ingredients list.
Avoid combining several acid-based products without considering how they are intended to be used.
INCI examples: Papain, Bromelain
Enzyme exfoliants may use ingredients such as papain or bromelain. Mechanical exfoliants, by contrast, rely on particles and the movement of applying the product. The two approaches differ in how they are used.
INCI examples: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Sunscreens can contain mineral and organic UV filters. The combination of filters and the complete formulation determine the tested protection of the finished product.
Check the stated sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection. Apply enough product and reapply it in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Often Overlooked but Important
A cream contains more than its highlighted active ingredients. Other components support cleansing, consistency, shelf life and pleasant application.
INCI examples: Aqua, Propanediol, Alcohol
Water forms the basis of many creams and serums. Solvents help dissolve other components of a formulation. Some also serve additional functions, such as helping to retain moisture.
INCI examples: Coco-Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Surfactants allow oils and dirt to be washed away with water. They are found, for example, in cleansing gels, shampoos and shower products. The overall combination of surfactants influences how a product cleanses.
INCI examples: Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum
Emulsifiers combine the water and oil phases of a cream. Texture-enhancing ingredients affect its thickness and how it spreads.
Fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol are not the same as ethanol. They are used, among other things, to create texture and help skin feel supple.
INCI example: Dimethicone
Silicones and other film-formers influence spreadability, smoothness and how a product feels on skin or hair. They are also used in make-up. Their presence alone does not make a product either good or bad.
INCI examples: Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Preservatives help protect products against the growth of unwanted microorganisms. Formulations containing water in particular need suitable microbiological protection.
“Preservative-free” is therefore not, by itself, a measure of quality.
INCI examples: Parfum, Limonene, Linalool
Fragrance ingredients give a product its scent. Essential oils can also provide fragrant components. If you have a known fragrance allergy, checking the complete ingredients list is particularly important.
Natural origin does not automatically mean that an ingredient is suitable for every skin type.
INCI examples: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, Mica, Silica
Pigments give colour to decorative cosmetics. Other powder ingredients influence shine, texture and finish. CI numbers are used to identify colourants.
INCI examples: Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA
These ingredients help adjust pH or keep the formulation stable. The presence of an acid in an INCI list does not automatically make the product an exfoliant.
Understanding Product Packaging
INCI stands for “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients”. These standardised names make it easier to compare ingredients in cosmetic products. You will usually find them under “Ingredients” on the packaging.
As a general rule, ingredients are listed in descending order of weight at the time they are added. Ingredients present at less than one per cent may subsequently appear in any order; special rules apply to colourants.
The list does not normally give exact concentrations. An ingredient near the end is therefore not automatically unimportant. Nor can you judge the complete performance of a formulation from the list alone.
Formulations can change. If you have a known sensitivity or allergy, always check the ingredients list on the specific product you are using.
Good to Know: The INCI names above are examples for guidance. They do not mean that every ingredient mentioned is used in the Déesse range. The linked pages will help you explore suitable skincare categories.
Frequently Asked Questions
Origin alone does not determine tolerability or skincare quality. Plant extracts and essential oils can also cause reactions. What matters is the specific ingredient, the formulation and your skin.
A suitable cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection provide a good foundation. Additional products should address a specific skincare need.
The right concentration depends on the ingredient and the product. A higher level is not automatically more effective or better tolerated. Follow the recommended directions.
The list helps you identify ingredients and check for known sensitivities. However, it cannot tell you everything about the formulation, its exact concentrations or how it will feel on the skin.
Personal Déesse Advice
Would you like to know more about a particular Déesse product or simplify your skincare routine? Tell Regine about your skin’s condition, the products you currently use and what matters most to you.
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