Cosmetic Ingredients

Cupuacu butter offers benefits for beautiful skin

Similar to the better known shea butter and cocoa butter, cupuacu butter is creamy and soft. Cupuacu butter is very moisturizing. Cupuacu butter can retain water more than shea butter and is therefore effective for moisturizing and plumping the skin.

It has an anti-inflammatory effect, brings elasticity to the skin and contains antioxidant properties. Cupuacu butter can be excellent for stretch marks, sunburned and dry skin. It can also be helpful for psoriasis.

Cupuacu butter is obtained from the tree Theobroma gradiflorum, which is related to cocoa and grows in tropical rainforests. Its fruits are turned into butter by cold pressing.

Cocoa butter for skin and hair

When most of us hear the term "cocoa butter", we first think of a bar of melt-in-the-mouth chocolate and less of a cosmetic raw material. Cocoa butter only shows its full potential in skin care!

Cocoa butter (INCI name THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER) is obtained from ground and pressed cocoa beans. This fat is light yellow and in its unrefined form has the familiar chocolate scent. When cold, the butter is solid and the melting point is around 35°C, which is why it is rather impractical in its pure form for personal care.

In creams and body lotions, on the other hand, cocoa butter ensures a pleasant consistency, supplies the skin with many valuable ingredients and leaves a light, nourishing film. Cocoa butter is rich in vitamins K and E and antioxidants and thus supports natural skin protection. Caffeine, palmitic, stearic and oleic acids are said to help increase skin elasticity and tone, which is why cocoa butter is also often used against pregnancy and stretch marks, but also against the first wrinkles.

As it has a strong moisturizing effect, it is a real treat for very dry or cracked skin and is not only used in rich face and body creams, but also in hand or foot butters. So that you can also benefit from the advantages of this valuable raw material, it is used in numerous Déesse products, such as the tried and tested My Secret facial butter.

Thanks to the high proportion of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, cocoa butter has a moisturizing and moisturizing effect and is therefore ideal for dry skin and brittle hair. It also impresses with a variety of antioxidants and minerals that can support our cells.

Cocoa butter melts very well, which is why creams with this ingredient are so easy to spread. The butter also makes the skin feel wonderfully soft.

Shea butter

Shea butter, a vegetable fat, is contained in many rich creams, but can also be used pure. Shea butter contains valuable and moisturizing ingredients and is the vegetable fat with the largest proportion of unsaponifiable components. Shea butter is therefore an ideal companion, especially for dry or demanding skin.

The vitamin E it contains also contributes to cell generation and is known to protect cells from free radicals. It is obtained from the fruit seeds of the shea tree, which mainly grows in savannahs in the Sudan zone in tropical Africa between Senegal and Uganda. That's why the butter is also called shea butter.

What makes fat so valuable?

The butter is obtained through a complex, sometimes physically demanding process. First, the flesh of the shea nut is removed, heated in hot water and then spread out on the ground to dry. In the next step, the shell is cracked and separated from the actual kernels using laborious manual work. These are then roughly chopped and roasted. The roasted slivers can now be ground with a machine or by hand.

The mushy mass created by grinding is mixed with water and kneaded until the oil separates.

This in turn is boiled again until a flaky substance settles on the surface of the water: shea butter. After it is skimmed and cooled, it takes on its final, solid form. The fact that shea butter is still used in so many cosmetic products is a sign enough of its many benefits.

Hyaluronic acid is an anti-aging serum

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide, i.e. a chain of sugar molecules, which is produced in our connective tissue.
It has the ability to bind large amounts of fluid - up to six liters per gram of hyaluronic acid!

In cosmetics it is particularly interesting in one function:

As the main component of the filling material between the skin cells, it supports the collagen and elastin fibers and thus gives the skin elasticity and resilience. An active ingredient produced by the body that ensures plump skin and thus prevents wrinkles? Sounds perfect at first, but of course there is a catch here too:

The body's own production decreases over time, to be exact from the age of 25! The skin loses moisture and elasticity, and dryness wrinkles form.

Then it is up to us to give our skin a hand, so to speak, and supply it with sufficient hyaluronic acid from the outside. It has a decisive advantage over other active ingredients:

Since hyaluronic acid is a substance produced naturally in the body, it is extremely well tolerated!

There are different types available to us in cosmetic products, each with its own advantages:

High molecular hyaluronic acid cannot be absorbed into the skin, but instead forms a kind of moisturizing film on the surface of the skin. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, on the other hand, can be stored in the epidermis, where it binds moisture. It therefore has a longer-term effect.

By the way:

Regardless of the molecule size, hyaluronic acid is always listed in the ingredient list (INCI list) as sodium hyaluronate.
Hyaluronic acid is therefore a valuable component of every skin care product and as such can improve the moisture retention capacity of the skin and make it appear plumper and smoother . In our range you will find the power ingredient, among other things. in our Vita Q10 Fluid, the booster moisturizer and in our new Aqua Treatment Hyaluronic Serum 4D (in four different molecule sizes).

Niacinamide

This trendy active ingredient is a true all-rounder because, in addition to its antioxidant effect, it supports an even skin tone and is therefore the ideal ally when it comes to unwanted pigment spots. In addition, it also promotes ceramide synthesis, which strengthens the skin's protective barrier.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that provides many benefits for the body. Here are some of the main benefits of niacinamide:

1. Skin Care: Niacinamide is a popular ingredient in skin care products due to its diverse benefits for the skin. It can help strengthen the skin barrier, increase skin moisture levels and improve skin elasticity. Niacinamide may also help treat acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Reducing Inflammation: Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and can help relieve inflammation in various areas of the body. It is sometimes used to help with inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea and eczema.

3. Regulation of cholesterol levels: Niacinamide can lower blood cholesterol levels, particularly LDL ("bad") cholesterol levels, while at the same time increasing HDL ("good" cholesterol) levels . This can help improve heart health.

4. Energy production: Niacinamide plays an important role in the body's energy metabolism. It helps convert food into energy and is involved in various metabolic processes.

5. Nervous system support: Niacinamide is important for the normal functioning of the nervous system. It plays a role in the production of certain neurotransmitters and may help prevent and treat certain neurological diseases.

Evening primrose oil - the valuable all-rounder

Evening primrose oil is obtained from the seeds of Oenothera biennis (common evening primrose). This originally comes from North America, where it was already valued by the local natives as a medicinal plant for skin problems. Due to the ever-increasing demand in Europe, the plant, which is up to one meter high, is now also grown here. It owes its name to the fact that the bright, light yellow flowers only open at dusk, which is why pollination is not done by bees, but by moths.

The flowers usually fade by morning. Since the ripening time of individual seeds varies even within a plant, there is no fixed harvest time. Instead, it is usually harvested when around 75% of all seeds are ripe.
Although roots, leaves, flowers and seeds are edible, the evening primrose mainly makes a name for itself in cosmetics, where the oil extracted from its seeds is very popular finds. It can nourish flaky skin, relieve itching, help restore a compromised skin barrier and also has anti-inflammatory properties.

The proportion of the omega-6 fatty acids linoleic acid and gamma-linoleic acid is particularly high in this valuable oil. The latter has a balancing effect and soothes irritated skin, and it also supports cell renewal. Linoleic acid, on the other hand, helps dry skin by regulating water balance. Vitamin E has an antioxidant effect and can therefore help to protect the skin from external influences.

Macadamia nut oil is a very special skin oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil/Macadamia lntegrifolia Seed Oil

The macadamia nut is one of the most expensive nuts in the world for various reasons: its trees place particularly high demands on the environment, and further processing of the nuts is comparatively difficult because the nut shells are particularly hard. In addition, demand is constantly increasing. For this reason and because of its fine, mild taste, it is also known as the “Queen of Nuts”.

The trees, some of which have multiple trunks, originally come from Queensland, eastern Australia (hence the name “Queensland nut”), grow up to 18 meters high and only begin to bear fruit after 7 to 10 years. Then per tree during the ripening period Up to 50kg can be harvested from February to September. After harvesting, the ripe nuts are stored for several months as the drying process makes the shell a little easier to crack.

Although macadamia nuts are primarily known as a delicious and healthy (albeit high-calorie) snack, the oil extracted from them also plays an important role in skin care. Particularly noteworthy is the high content of palmitoleic acid, which has a positive effect on spreadability, promotes absorption and can protect the skin from free radicals.

Macadamia nut oil is particularly suitable for the care of dry and sensitive skin, thanks to its high proportion of anti-inflammatory active ingredients and the similarity of its fatty acid composition to that of human sebum (sebum). It has an extremely nourishing, skin-smoothing and regenerating effect.

Urea as a moisture retainer

Urea is considered the miracle cure for dry, cracked skin. Although the name Urea (Latin for urea) still indicates the original “source” of this active ingredient, as early as 1828 a process was developed to produce Urea synthetically can be. Nowadays, the urea used in cosmetic products no longer has anything to do with urine.

What very few people know: Not only urine, but also sweat and therefore (at least healthy) skin contain urea, which acts as a natural moisturizing factor (Natural Moisturizing Factor = NMF). As such, it “pulls” moisture out of the air and stores it on the skin. It also stimulates the networking of skin cells with each other, so that the skin can store moisture for longer and thus reduces moisture loss. The skin itself produces too little >Urea, this reduces its ability to bind water and it can react with dryness, itching and dandruff. Then this important building block should be supplied to it from the outside in the form of cosmetic products.

Swiss Complex

Sempervivum Tectorum - better known as houseleek. For this complex, Deesse uses a 10-fold concentrated extract of this so-called “Swiss Aloe Vera” from local cultivation. Like traditional aloe vera, its thick leaves can store a large amount of water, which means it can cope with very dry climates. Used in cosmetics, it can activate skin regeneration, is intensively moisturizing and has an antioxidant effect. Its valuable properties become particularly clear when the Latin name "Sempervivum" is translated: it means "eternal life"...

Another important component of the exclusive Swiss Complex is the Alpine rose extract from Swiss organic farming. This typical Swiss flower, which can only be found at an altitude of 1500 m above sea level, has developed an impressive strategy over thousands of years to protect itself against drying out and attacks by free radicals in this harsh climate. The extract from this striking alpine plant restores the skin's elasticity and protects the skin proteins from oxidation.

Behind the name ProRenew Complex™ lies the biotechnologically produced extract of a lactic acid-producing bacterium. Until now, we were familiar with these probiotic ingredients from the food industry - for example in probiotic yoghurts. We now know that these extracts also have valuable skin care properties, for example the ProRenew Complex™ targets the most important factors in skin aging, namely the skin's response to constantly changing environmental conditions and its ability to renew itself quickly and efficiently. In addition, the production of essential proteins and enzymes in the skin is accelerated, the skin flora is supported and skin renewal and barrier function are promoted.

AHA fruit acid

Do acid and skin care go together?

We find a variety of different acids for a wide variety of purposes on the lNCl lists of most cosmetic items. How come?

Acids used in cosmetics can be divided into two groups: AHA and BHA. While only salicylic acid is relevant for skin care in the group of BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), numerous members of the AHA family are used in care products.

What distinguishes the individual acids from each other and what effect do they have?

Alphahydroxy acids (AHA) include glycolic, lactic and various fruit acids, which have been used successfully in skin care since the 1980s. They work according to the following principle: Our skin cells renew themselves regularly every four weeks.

This means that new cells are constantly forming on the “inside” of the skin, while at the same time the old skin cells on the “outside” of the skin are gradually shed, so that the new cells essentially migrate from bottom to top. The old and dead skin cells on the surface have a protective function, but at the same time they can make the skin appear dull and uneven. If one of these cells clogs a pore, inflammation, pimples and impurities can also occur.

AHA fruit acids ensure that the connections between old and new skin cells are loosened, making it easier for the old cells to be “disposed of” by the skin. This means that the young skin cells migrate upwards more quickly and the skin appears clearer and fresher. Without the barrier of dead skin cells, other skin care products can be absorbed better.

Use AHA only at night and ensure adequate sun protection during the day.

Jojoba oil

The valuable jojoba oil (actually liquid wax) comes from the seeds of the jojoba bush, which is primarily native to the desert-like regions of North America. The valuable oil is an indispensable part of cosmetics because it has a particularly nourishing effect on skin and hair.

It is very similar to our skin sebum and is therefore very well tolerated even by sensitive skin. Even for combination skin, jojoba oil protects against moisture loss without leaving a greasy film. As INCI, jojoba oil can be found under the name Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil.

Panthenol

Panthenol is found in wound creams and ointments, but is also included in eye skin regeneration and is considered an all-round talent: drops, nasal sprays, shampoos and even lozenges. Panthenol is also often at the heart of many skin care products.

What is panthenol?

• is a colorless liquid with a slight odor
• is a provitamin. This means that it is first converted into vitamin B5, also known as pantothenic acid, in the body. The advantage: Provitamins are more stable, so they don't break down as quickly in cosmetic products.
• Helps the skin to retain moisture and stimulates lipid synthesis. This strengthens the skin barrier, meaning less moisture evaporates through the skin (this process is also called “transepidermal water loss”). This in turn promotes, among other things, the elasticity of the skin.

• Stimulates cell formation in the epidermis and dermis and thus has a regenerating effect
• is often used in hair care products because both the scalp and the hair itself benefit from the moisturizing effect
• has a calming effect, which is why it is often used in sun protection products.

Panthenol offers benefits for every skin type: dry skin is happy about the moisturizing, sensitive skin about the calming effect and the strengthening of the skin barrier. An intact skin protective barrier is also important for impure skin, as it can better keep out bacteria and germs. For mature skin, stimulating oil production plays an important role.

Glycerin

Glycerin is contained in the majority of cosmetic products.

We hear the accusation again and again that glycerin dries out the skin. This can also be the case if the dosage is too high and the overall formulation is unbalanced. This is due to its - actually positive - property of binding moisture in the epidermis. Ideally, this moisture comes from the ambient air or is delivered to the skin in a well-formulated product together with the glycerin.

However, if the air is very dry, the glycerin is dosed too high or the cosmetic product does not contain enough water, glycerin “looks for” water from other sources, such as for example in the deeper layers of the skin, which ultimately really dries out the skin. Déesse cosmetics are formulated in such a way that your skin benefits optimally from all ingredients.

Glycerin is a colorless and odorless liquid. It is mainly obtained by breaking down natural fats. Glycerin is produced in the body during natural metabolic processes and is therefore very well tolerated and generally suitable for all skin types. Glycerin is part of the NlMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), the natural moisture system of our skin. As such, it absorbs moisture from the environment, releases it into the skin and binds it there, preventing it from drying out.

Coenzyme Q10

The body's own substance Q10 (chem.: Ubiquinone - Wikipedia) vital. It has been possible to supply the body with Q10 from outside. Q10 is one of the most effective weapons in the fight against wrinkles. That's why more and more products with Q10 are coming onto the bathroom shelf.

Q10 is also known as Coenzyme Q and was discovered in 1957 before energy production in human cells was demonstrated in 1978. In addition to its role as a transmitter within the respiratory chain, Coenzyme Q is a highly effective oxidation inhibitor - a free radical scavenger. This works against the free radicals that can cause the first wrinkles to appear. Q10 ensures that the free radicals are immediately defused.

From the age of 20 and/or with stress or an unhealthy lifestyle, the concentration of Q10 in the cells reduces. To counteract this, creams and lotions are now available that contain a lot of Q10.

Dietary supplements now also contain Q10. Here the coenzyme can be taken in the form of capsules, which has been proven to increase the Q10 concentration in the body. Q10 does not only make you more beautiful but also healthier.

These other Déesse products contain the active ingredient Q10 :

Eye cream, body cream Q10, energy cream for eye care, Caviar Intensive Serum